The world of menswear is facing a unique challenge: a sameness epidemic. Minimalism has taken over, and it's not just a trend; it's a global phenomenon. From Japan to Scandinavia, America, and Western Europe, the most popular menswear brands are embracing a versatile, pared-back aesthetic. But here's where it gets controversial: is this minimalist movement a sign of creativity or conformity?
In the past, we've seen eras dominated by logo-heavy streetwear and shrunken suits. But now, it's all about casual tailoring and workwear-inspired looks that flatter almost everyone. Brands like Auralee, Mfpen, and Evan Kinori are thriving in this new landscape, offering a fresh take on luxury amid a chaotic political and economic climate.
"When people were rocking oversized Balenciaga sweatshirts, we looked like we missed the mark," says Chris Black, a GQ columnist and founder of Done to Death Projects. "Even my dad could pull off a $1,000 jacket from Evan Kinori, and it would look just as stylish as it does on a young Mr. Porter shopper."
But will this minimalist movement last? There's a risk that these brands, with their clean lines and earth tones, might start to blend into one another. As Frederik Berner Kühl, founder of his namesake label, puts it, "As a designer, it's a bit boring when everything starts to look the same. You have to refine those nuances that make you stand out."
To stay relevant, these brands are focusing on the small details that make their pieces unique. Auralee adds pops of bright colors to its browns and greys, while Mfpen offers a grungy twist on corporate uniforms. Evan Kinori embodies a rugged look with its Irish wool flannel overshirts and elastic-banded hemp canvas pants, and Stòffa favors soft, relaxed tailoring.
"It's all about the idiosyncrasies," says Nicholas Ragosta, co-founder of Stòffa. "We're doubling down on what makes us different, whether it's through fabric choices, design quirks, or the in-store experience."
Menswear's new minimalism is a global phenomenon, but each region puts its own spin on it. Japanese brands blend casual European tailoring and American workwear with a touch of Japanese iconoclasm. Think pleated utility jackets, twisted denim, and wide-leg trousers. In Scandinavia, minimalism is expressed through structured garments like spread-collar zip-up jackets and sharp double-breasted overcoats. Western European labels like Lemaire offer high-fashion, avant-garde pieces, while Drake's leans into its heritage with tweed blazers and Shetland wool cable knits. In the US, brands blend western and preppy aesthetics, popularizing lug-soled loafers and crewneck cardigans.
"It's a shift away from catering to trend-hungry hypebeasts," says Jian DeLeon, men's fashion director at Nordstrom. "These buzzy labels are offering well-made clothes for grown-up, in-the-know consumers who want an updated classic, or for younger shoppers seeking a personal style that won't go out of fashion next year."
NN.07's approach is to design "lifestyle" pieces like its $300 pleated Kay trousers with a partially elasticized waist, perfect for the modern man who is "done with noise," says Anders Rahr, the company's CEO.
"There's a new movement toward craft and artisanal menswear," DeLeon adds. "The clothes are just the beginning; it's everything else that informs why you're into it, which is a new way of thinking for many men."
In an era of visual sameness, brands are focusing on the subtle distinctions that set them apart. Some designers, like Sigurd Bank, Mfpen's founder and creative director, inject their personalities into their products. A pair of Mfpen jeans might include metal rivets that "contrast" with the corporate elements of the clothes, reflecting Bank's countercultural taste.
"We have a different attitude towards the establishment," Bank says. "We take garments from the corporate world and give them a new context."
Labels are also highlighting the craftsmanship behind their clothes. This year, Stòffa started using natural dyes for its merino wool sweaters, wool twill jackets, and brushed cotton dress shirts. In October, the brand displayed the "ingredients" of these dyes in its SoHo flagship store, "to tell deeper stories about the product," says Ragosta. "Sharing information with our customers is a valuable way to build that connection."
"It's all about separating yourself from the pack," Black adds. "At this level, the product is excellent, so it's about those unique details."
Brands like Drake's are modernizing their assortments while staying true to their aesthetic foundations. Michael Hill, Drake's creative director, says they've softened shirt collars and widened cuts in recent seasons. Small updates to fabrications can also push a label's design language forward. For its Fall/Winter 2025 collection, Berner Kühl added 5% cashmere to its corduroy for a slouchier, more versatile look.
"It's about separating minimalism from emptiness," Kühl says. "What adds meaning to the product? That can be inspiration enough."
If menswear becomes loud again, minimalist brands will continue to appeal to sophisticated consumers who value intentional, well-made pieces. As Christopher Green, owner of Ven.Space, a boutique stocking brands like Lemaire and Auralee, puts it, "When a customer finds their perfect fit, and it makes them feel confident and good, you've gained a customer for life."
So, what do you think? Is minimalism in menswear a creative movement or a sign of conformity? Will these brands continue to thrive, or will they blend into the background? We'd love to hear your thoughts in the comments!
